Tanzania

Tanzania with Mefi

I LoVe being on Safari.
Absolutely love the feeling of being in the wild, with abundant wildlife and myriad of amazing birds, the amazing scenery of this un-spoilt land, and the people. 

My smile pure joy and pretty much 'on' the whole time.

My smile pure joy and pretty much 'on' the whole time.

My Safari this past May was just that. And I got to share this with two Houston Bloggers Sheree and Natalie. This is my second time taking guests on Safari with me and seeing Tanzania through their eyes has just added to my Safari love affair. 

When my guests travel with Journey To Africa, I plan Safaris where I draw upon the many connections I have in Tanzania from my years living there. I also tap into all the Safari knowledge I have accumulated in the 16 years I have had the pleasure of showing clients my Tanzania. 

And I take my own advice and plan my own Safaris accordingly. 

Natalie and the kids having a good time.

Natalie and the kids having a good time.

Our first stop was the village of Mkuru with my friend Tati. Tati and I go way back to early 2000 when she and Paul Oliver used to run the original Oliver's Camp. The Oliver's Camp that was a mobile camp before the current luxury glamping. 

She has started a project where she works with an Italian jewelry designer to create modern jewelry using traditional methods, each hand-crafted by Maasai women at the village, or at her store in Arusha. 

The day was spent with the Maasai ladies and their children who showed us how they live in a lifestyle that is so different from our western ways. Having grown up in Tanzania, their lifestyle is not surprising to me, but observing from Sheree and Natalie's perspective was an eye opener.

We had lots of discussions on this difference. I feel we need to come to terms that just because it is different, it does not mean it does not work. That lifestyle works for most of them and those that seek change, have options like work shops and teaching colleges. We can not force change on anyone unless it is desired.

Trying out original Maasai necklaces.

Trying out original Maasai necklaces.

This day also presented many commonalities. Jewelry. Sheree and Natalie got to indulge with fashionable accessories worn by the Maasai women themselves as well the jewelry that is Maasai-inspired. A fun day.

Then ...  a glorious Safari. Ah! My favorite activity. 

Elephants in Tarangire

Our first stop was Tarangire National Park. For Natalie, her request when we met in Houston, Texas for our pre-Safari planning was she wanted to see elephants since she missed seeing these mighty giants in South Africa.

Well, her wish got fulfilled - over and over again. Sheree, her eyes were just lite with awe. Her first ever Safari and any animal that moved made her jump with delight. Pumped me up to be with a first timer on Safari.  We were serenaded by birds, amused by elephants, babies and young ones as well, given a show by monkeys, peeked by giraffes and more. Tarangire, as always, did not disappoint. 

Rift Valley Children's Village.

There is also the people connection you make on Safari. Natalie had brought in a bag full of under garments from Peach. We got to hand deliver the bag to our friends at Rift Valley Children's Home. This home is truly a special place for the many children who would have had to struggle but instead found love, support, shelter built warmly by Mama India and Peter. Asante for all your do guys. We support you!

Our Safari Life. Pretty Amazing.

Our Safari Life. Pretty Amazing.

Ngorongoro Crater was our own little park. The advantage of going in May is that high season is not in full swing. Besides Sheree showing us her ninja moves and flamingo dance, Natalie taking a post breakfast nap, we got to spend time with the endangered black rhino, three lion cubs just a few months old, zebras, flamingoes and more. Fazo, our guide, helped out Mama Simba, the local Crater researcher, in updating her on the new cubs. We just chimed in on how we thought those little goobers were so darn cute. 

Sheree, co-piloting.

Sheree, co-piloting.

Our last stop, mighty Serengeti. Sheree flew us there, well, almost. She used to be a pilot about 20 years ago and she has not forgotten. The pilot let her handle a control or two and Natalie and I held our breath when she pulled the knobs. Suffice to say, we landed safely.  :)

Hippos in Serengeti

Serengeti! Serengeti Shall Never Die. Really, this place never disappoints.

The different habitats gifted us with a range of wildlife. Cheetahs in the plains near Namiri, Wildebeest and Zebra Migration in the tall grass around Central Serengeti, elephants in the savannah bushes, giraffes near the acacias, lions on the kopjes warming themselves, 100 + smelly hippos that we were so lucky to see, baboons and so much more. And birds, don't over look birds. These beauties were everywhere. Sheree would draw upon her Colorado birding knowledge and Natalie, I have to work on her some more for our next Safari together. 

The Crew at Dunia Camp. We were sad to leave on our last day.

The Crew at Dunia Camp. We were sad to leave on our last day.

Besides amazing wildlife, birds, landscape, on Safari there is friendships to be made, dancing to be enjoyed, lots of stories to be shared with people from all over this World and Tanzania. 

This is why I love my Safari Life. I encourage you to come on a Journey To Africa Safari.
There is so much to explore in amazing Tanzania. 

Sign up for our newsletter if you want to know when I will be leading a group on Safari to Tanzania or another part of East or Southern Africa. But, with me or not, I encourage you to go - Life Worth Exploring. 

Best time to go on a Safari?

One question we get a lot is what is the best time to go on Safari in Tanzania?
Really, anytime you can make it, is good time for Safari. The wildlife is always present.

Having said that, some people are extremely sensitive to heat and dust.  If that is the case, stay away from December to March as Serengeti can be dry, dusty and hot [90Fs during the day with cooler 70Fs during the evening]. Our camps + vehicles do not have air condition which can be an issue for those with respiratory problems. 

Weather Guideline for your Safari Planning.

  • November to December // Short rain season + Hot.
    Sporadic showers will not hinder your Safari. Wildebeest and zebra migration, one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on Earth, are heading to Southern to Eastern Serengeti and Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Southern Serengeti is the place to be as the lawn-mowers - our wildebeest and zebra - will be coming here. The southern parks like Selous, Ruaha and Katavi will start sprouting up grass. They don't have lawn-mowers. 
     
  • January to Mid-March // Can be dry + Hot.
    Birthing season for the Wildebeest and Zebra. Still in Southern to Eastern Serengeti and Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Tarangire National Park with its resident wildlife and its rivers and swamps will make you fall in love with this park anytime. The southern parks are still wonderful to explore. 
     
  • Mid-March/April to May // Long rain season + Warm to cool.
    Showers can last a few hours but when it clears, fresh skies. If you don’t mind being adventurous [plans may change but we always have a Plan B] this is a great time to visit and get some amazing deals on lodges.  Paul Oliver, a specialist guide calls this the secret season – less crowd but awesome wildlife. Tarangire National Park, with tall grass and abundant water everywhere allowing wildlife to spread out, has black cotton soil which is tricky to drive on when it has rained hard but as we mentioned, get ready for an adventure. Ruaha will also have tall grasses and wildlife will have spread out but that surprise eye peaking out will make you scream -  but don't - they walk away. 

    Some lodges also take this time to close and work on their tents and give the crew training. Never fear, there is always a Safari Lodge open. 
     
  • June to July // Dry + Cooler months.
    June is green after the rains. Enjoy the sea of wild flowers. Migratory animals are roaming from Central to Western Serengeti on their way to Northern Serengeti. Wildlife from the surrounding areas are about to enter Tarangire National Park.
     
  • August to October // Dry season + Cool to warm during day and cool during night. 
    The wildebeest and zebra population is dispersed in Masai Mara to Northern Serengeti. Mara River crossing is a site to witness. Tarangire National Park is alive with wildlife thanks to its permanent Silale Swamp and Tarangire River.

But, the weather is never predictable. Hence the adventure on Safari. Now, twende, let's go.

Don't Mess with Me!

When Heather T. kindly shared her November 2015 Tanzania Safari photos with me, this sequence of photographs made me want to know more. What happened here? What was the end result?

I emailed Heather and this is her account.

” The elephant was chasing a lion couple because it was leading a small group of elephants which included a baby elephant they wanted to protect.  Indeed there was trumpeting and the elephant stood its ground, scaring the little cats away – twice!  The first time they did not move far enough away for her liking. ”

Oh, I would have loved being part of this conversation in the Safari vehicle with my friends.
“Here she comes.” “She’s scooting them away.” “Oh watch out lions. Don’t make her angry” “What, moving in again” “Go get them mama elephant.” “Oh, the look of defeat.” “Better luck next time.” “Pick another animal.” “She was so scared, she pissed in her pants”

Okay, this is what is going through my mind when I am looking at these photographs having read Heather’s account.

A memorable moment on Safari!

Write your on Safari Story!

April Showers, May Flowers

"I bless the rain's down in Africa" - Toto.

We do love it when it rains in our National Parks. The animals and birds depend on the rain to fill up the water sources layers deep. The grass, bushes and the trees flourish during the rains providing food for countless wildlife. From the lakes, the rivers and its many tributaries, to the swamps and water holes, life depends on the rains to swell these life-lines come the brutal dry season which is usually from July to September.

April and May are usually the rainy season in Tanzania and Kenya. This year we have had some good rains in the National Parks. From wild Ruaha to Masai Mara, the parks have had some good downpour. In fact, some areas in the parks are still experiencing rainfall. That is nature for you. Awesome yet unpredictable!

Here are 5 reasons to consider an April + May Safari :

  • Low number of people on Safari.
  • Great rates on many of our luxury Safari lodges and tented camps.
  • Wildflowers galore.
  • Dreamy sky for great photography.
  • Wildlife is always there!

Hardly any people on Safari. The rains tend to scare people. But don't be. It usually rains for a few hours and then you have a clear day to enjoy. Be ready for an adventure.  Sometimes you have to wear a poncho on Safari or sliding around during your game drive -- all memory makers. 

Seeing only a few other vehicles in your own private park. Sure Tarangire and Ruaha will have long grass but if you are patient, the sightings are going to be that much rewarding.

Most of our preferred lodges offer great rates around this time. Take advantage and escape right after school closes [in the US which is usually end of May] for a Family Safari.

Green green grass with lots of wildflowers and blue grey skies. My photographer clients love this time as they say the background for their subjects tend to be dreamy. The harsh sun can be tamed and the whole day can be a photoshoot. And the subjects are always spectacular and sometimes freshly cleaned.

Come. Explore Tanzania in April and May.

The Great Wildebeest and Zebra Migration

One of the biggest draw to the wildlife-rich Serengeti National Park in Northern Tanzania and Masai Mara in Kenya is the wildebeest and zebra migration. The 1.5 million wildebeest and 0.5 zebra strong herbivore team, and its many herbivore and carnivore co-dependants, are constantly roaming this expansive area. The phenomenon is one of the Natural Wonders of the World. An experience that must be witnessed first hand as words alone can't justify this wonder.

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The large herds are constantly moving this approximately 7,000 sq. miles area in search of fresh food and water.

They will feast on the nutritious mineral-rich grass of the Southern Serengeti during birthing time. With lots of calves, the cats have easy target. They sustain themselves on the long grass of Northern Serengeti and Masai Mara after rutting in Western Serengeti. And pass through Central and Eastern Serengeti / Loliondo area when heading back to Southern Serengeti. While on the move, you may be lucky and witness the Grumeti River crossing in Western Serengeti  and dramatic Mara River crossing in Northern Serengeti. That is bonus!

Wildebeest Migration viewing guideling:

November to December
The wildebeest and zebra migration are heading to Southern Serengeti from Northern Serengeti. They are moving down via east of Serengeti in the Loliondo area and the many private concession areas. During this time, it is best to hedge your bets and stay in two regions of Serengeti.

January to March
The birthing season for the wildebeest and zebra. The place to be is Southern Serengeti to Loliondo and the many private concessions areas. The herds will also spill over to Ngorongoro Conservation Area. A good time to enjoy lots of hunts as cats come out to play with lots of young calves around.

April to May
The long rain season and showers can last a few hours but when it clears - fresh skies. If you don’t mind being adventurous this is a great time to visit and get some amazing deals on lodges. Central Serengeti to Western Serengeti is the place to be.

June to July
June is green after the rains. Enjoy the wildflowers. Migratory animals are roaming from Central to Western Serengeti on their way to Northern Serengeti and Masai Mara. During this time, the herds may be crossing the Grumeti River to get to Northern Serengeti or may already be in this area. Grumeti River is home to large crocodiles. Areas outside western Serengeti are also prime viewing spots.

August to October
The Wildebeest and Zebra population are usually in the long lush grass of Masai Mara and Northern Serengeti. They are in this region for a few months enjoying vegetation that the long rains of April May brought about. The herds are going back and forth between Tanzania and Kenya and increasing the odds of seeing a lovely Mara River crossing.

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Right Place, Right Time!
The wildebeest and zebra herd of a million-plus are always moving. The thing to remember is getting to the right place, right time. We know just the places to make that happen.

Walking in Serengeti

When you are on Safari, you spend a lot of time in our Safari vehicles.  Driving is great. You get to see the various landscapes, the scenery and wildlife.

Now try walking.

Walking heightens your senses‘, as my guide Richard of our partner company African Environments told me. And he is right.  The minute we got out of the land cruiser and touched Mother Earth in our private walking area in Serengeti, the  hairs on the back of my neck were on alert.  Let the walk begin.

Our first encounter, buffalos. Three of them. “Get behind me and walk sideways‘, instructs Richard who is carrying a loaded gun. Yes sir. I am thinking, will this large 70-300 mm L canon lens work as a weapon. I will swing hard. Luckily, I did not have to try this maneuver.  They run away. Whew.  My heart stops pounding.  What a thrill. And that is only the first 30 minutes.

Richard on alert after the buffalos.

Richard on alert after the buffalos.

As we continue our morning Private Serengeti walk up and around the kopjes, we pass through lots of colorful butterflies, birds, klipspringer, hyrax and male impalas. The grass is tall from the long rains but dry. It is hot even in June. I am reminded to drink water.

Walking through the lovely kopjes.

Walking through the lovely kopjes.

Good walking shoes are definitely recommended. Leg gaiters would have helped from getting the sticky seeds from poking. Tsetse flies are a bother. Keep calm and swat them away.  Wear loose clothing so they can not bite you through your shirt. Light colored clothing would have been a better choice. Lesson learned the itchy way.

After about 3 hours of walking [you decide what is comfortable for you], we stopped for a delicious barbeque lunch by the dried up river.  Chicken, beef, variety of vegetables, fruit, salad, coffee and wine – the whole works here for lunch.  Relax and enjoyed the view after a yummy feast. Hard working crew – Asante.

Chef grilling the delicious lunch

Chef grilling the delicious lunch

Under the tree for a good shade and lovely breeze.

Under the tree for a good shade and lovely breeze.

After a good strong cup of coffee, Richard and I continue our afternoon walk. We encountered more animals in our afternoon walk. Elands, hartebeest, kudu, harem of female impalas and about 4 male bachelors, topis, and more.

The one male impala with his harem gave us a good show. When they first saw us, half of the females ran left and the other half followed the male to the right side. You could see the male trying hard to get back to his group on the left to bring them back to the rest of his females on the right. I was rooting for the left group females to run away and leave the ‘demanding’ male behind.  It did not happen. Alas, they rejoined and the group was together once again.

Two topis towering atop the terrace.

Two topis towering atop the terrace.

Eland Family.

Eland Family.

Walking through the tall grass with my ranger, Deo.

Walking through the tall grass with my ranger, Deo.

Richard and I were enjoying the walking when we came across a barbed snare. According to Richard, this area, east of Central Serengeti was closed off to the public for a long time by TANAPA. There were no protective eyes here. Poaching was easy until the five + hand-selected companies known for their ethical practices, one of them being our partners came into the area. This has helped with poaching.  The numbers have gone down but not completely unfortunately.

Our ranger Deo collecting the snare. He will take it back to HQ for disposal.

Our ranger Deo collecting the snare. He will take it back to HQ for disposal.

And one thing you will notice when walking in Private Serengeti, the animals here are afraid of humans.  They run when they see you. When you are on a game drive in a vehicle in the main areas of Serengeti, they do not budge.

Stunning rock formations.

Stunning rock formations.

Around 5:30 pm or so, we are getting close to camp, walking on a dry river bed when we hear some noise behind the bushes on top. Now Deo has been a calm ranger all this time but when I hear him cock his gun, I can hear my breathing quicken. Richard is on alert. My arm hair is stand up again. Fear is healthy. My heart is pounding. I am instructed to climb up the bank. I run. False alarm. Buffaloes lazily grazing up top the river bank.

I ask Richard, what happens if it is a lion and it is going to spring on us. He said they would shoot to kill. Luckily in the 5+ years he and his guides have not had to do that. 

Richard with his gun, ready to fire if necessary.

Richard with his gun, ready to fire if necessary.

We make it to our Wilderness Camp.

This is comfortable basic camping with a sleeping cot but still good food in a closed dining tent. The dome shaped tent has a cot with sheets, blankets and pillows. Toilet and bathroom are outside and the make shift walk-way is lit with solar lamps hoisted on a tree stump.

The toilet is a pit latrine – toilet paper included. You cover with dirt after you are done doing your business. An eco-friendly way to leave the land when the camp is packed up. Basic and efficient. The shower is a bucket shower which was comfortable and the 5 gallons was enough water. Soap and shampoo in pump bottles was included.

Dome tent with toilet tent [blue] and the shower tent.

Dome tent with toilet tent [blue] and the shower tent.

I ended up taking a shower at 9:00 pm – adventurous!

Why you ask?
When we got there, it was around 6:00 pm. The crew at the camp had started a beautiful roaring fire and the sun was about the set. I was not about to miss this lovely setting. So I opted to wait to wash away my day.

And I am so glad I did. I was rewarded by some of the most glorious stunning sunset sitting by the cozy fire over a cold Kilimanjaro beer. Oh the colors! Brilliant.

Magnificent colors of the sunset.

Magnificent colors of the sunset.

Richard enjoying the sunset by the roaring fire.

Richard enjoying the sunset by the roaring fire.

Between enjoying the magical sunset around 6:30 pm to shower time around 9:00 pm, I enjoyed a lovely dinner in the dining tent while it rained outside. The crew again – asante for your hard work.

The rain continued to drizzle but that did not deter Richard and I from heading back out to the fire, hurdled under one large umbrella, sharing stories about the walk, our children, Safari life and more.

At around 9:00 pm, I did take the bucket shower under the dark skies and slight drizzle.

I can honestly say this was one fantastic experience I can not wait to experience again and share with you all. Happiness is being on Safari. I sure made lots of memories on my Private Serengeti Safari.

Life worth Exploring! ™
Make memories on your Serengeti Walking Safari.

These Safari experiences await you.
Get in touch. We can help you with your Safari Planning

Carlos's Top 10 / Client Safari Story

Journey To Africa client Carlos M. wrote this lovely blog post. He loves cats! When he and I first started planning his first Safari with his son Jeff to Tanzania in 2011, he told me he has watched every NatGeo show and going on Safari is a dream. As soon as he came back, he told me he is hooked. He took 3 of his friends for his second Safari in 2013 and this time we added Kenya’s Masai Mara.  

Asante Carlos for this post.

Carlo M at Oliver’s Camp in Tarangire with his Cuban cigar.

Carlo M at Oliver’s Camp in Tarangire with his Cuban cigar.

Here goes // Carlos’s top 10 //

… Mefi, it’s been less than a year since I returned from my second safari, and I have to admit, I can’t wait to go back. You going brings back so many memories. For some reason, other trips I take leave me with memories, but not great memories as safaris do. It is such a different experience from other things I have done.

I don’t know what people expect to see when they go on a safari. All safaris are different. Below I have captured my favorite memories to give others an idea of what they might experience in a safari to Tanzania and Kenya.

My top 10 Journey to Africa safari wildlife memories (in no specific order) are:

1. While on the walking safari at Tarangire, about ½ a mile from camp, and about 15 yards in front of us, a young male lion raises his head out of the tall grass, looks at us and runs away. It was so unexpected!!!

Journey To Africa Safari

2. Rhinoceros are getting increasingly hard to find. Beside a dwindling number, they are very shy animals. My son and I were very fortunate to see a mother and calf within about 40 yards. We had seen rhinos in the distance, but watching them this close was special. A few weeks before, one had been poached.

3. While staying at Olakira in the Northern Serengeti, we saw 4 or 5 wildebeest Mara River crossings. There were wildebeest everywhere, running in a single file in every direction. We saved the best crossing for last. On the last game drive before heading for the air strip, we saw a great crossing. Our vehicle was right in the middle of the herd as we inched our way along. They were grunting (I can still hear them) and kicking up dust. They got to the river and stopped. They left and returned several times. By this time we had left the herd and positioned ourselves at a high point to see the crossing. All of a sudden, a lone zebra starts across. When it got to the other side, it was pandemonium. The crossing started in masses. We watched for about 40 minutes and headed for the airstrip. WOW!! What a way to end the trip.

Journey To Africa Safari

4. The Central Serengeti is loaded with cats. We saw more cats here than any place else. While on a game drive, we saw a very well fed lioness on a tree. We watched for a while and also noticed several lionesses beginning to congregate to our left about 50-75 yards away. They showed up one by one until there were 6. All of a sudden, the lioness in the tree climbs down, runs right in front of our vehicle, grabs one of the lioness, and they run to the left. In the meantime, we see a lone zebra coming to a nearby stream. The remaining 5 lioness get in crouch attack mode and start crawling forward. By this time, the 2 lioness circled behind the zebra. We see the zebra’s ears perk up, she starts to run, and in seconds all we see are 7 lions and 4 zebra legs sticking up in the air. It was perfectly orchestrated. It was spell binding and breathtaking. (By the way, this is my top memory)

Journey To Africa Safari

5. Late one afternoon, while in the Central Serengeti, a female leopard went on her evening hunt. We were able to watch her for about 15-20 minutes. She came within 10 feet of our vehicle. We found out that night in camp from a fellow guest that she had 2 cubs. They actually stayed near her den for 6 hours earlier that day hoping to see and photograph the cubs, and they did.

6. Tarangire National Park is loaded with elephants. One of my favorite memories has to be watching 3 young elephants playing in the swamp. You could tell they were having a great time. The herd, consisting of several cows and babies was nearby. It was a beautiful sight. That same day, a lone bull in musk started chasing our vehicle. The guide said he probably wanted to mate with the Land Rover.

Journey To Africa Safari

7. Shortly after landing at the Masai Mara on the way to Sekenani Camp, in the span of 1 hour we saw 4 of the Big Five. WOW!! We saw a large male leopard on a tree, several lions enjoying a Cape buffalo they had killed the night before, a herd of elephants, and a herd of Cape buffalo. Does not get any better than that.

8. While on a game drive in the Masai Mara, we came across a large pride of lions which included several cubs. After a waiting for a while, all 4 cubs finally lined up, looked at the camera, and gave me the opportunity to take one of my favorite safari pictures.

9. On nature shows, I have seen many cheetahs climb on a vehicle to get a better observation point for prey. Actually got to see it in person. We found 2 cheetah brothers lying under a tree. There were about 10-15 vehicles nearby. All of a sudden one of the cats jumped on the hood and onto the roof of one of the vehicles. Those of us in the other vehicles had the show of a lifetime. The occupants of the vehicle could not see a thing. We all thanked them for providing us a great show. The cheetah stayed on the roof for about 15 minutes then left. He did not even look at the occupants.

Cheetah on Safari Vehicle

10. On the afternoon of the last day, our Masai guide in the Masai Mara asked us if there was anything else we wanted to see. I told him I wanted to see a male lion, a friend wanted to see a large herd of giraffe, and another friend wanted to see one last cheetah. Within 15 minutes, we were parked near a large male lion, 10 minutes after that a herd of 17 giraffe was in front of us, and on the way back to camp we had our cheetah. I don’t know if he could smell them, but he found them rather quickly!!

11. While these are my top ten memories, the list would not be complete without #11. While parked on a low hill, whether at the Serengeti or the Masai Mara, I found myself looking at the expanse of savannah below, and seeing wildlife in every possible direction as far as the eye could see. This was absolutely breathtaking and indescribable. This scene was repeated over and over.

Journey To Africa Safari

May God bless the Serengeti, the Masai Mara, and all its inhabitants. This is a treasure to be preserved and enjoyed

Hope you have enjoyed Carlos's Safari Story.
Don't you think it is time you write your own Safari Story? Let us give you lots of information and take you to the source of your novel.